Posts by GoinManta

    Anyone that wants to preorder a complete kit while the cranks are getting done..


    I will offer this one time.. a complete kit.


    This kit will convert a 1.9L to a 2.5L or optionally 2.6L


    Kit will include :


    The modified Opel 2.3L crank / Crank bearing set / Thrust bearing shims for the main thrust bearing - $1300


    New pistons custom set modified to be piston steered - $900


    New BMW Rods (With rod bearings) mounted to the pistons - $400


    Total is $2600 for the complete kit.


    ANY machine shop with this kit and a 1.9L block can do the work. All they have to do is bored the block, and mount the crank. Then they will need to modify and clear out any "hits" inside the block.


    Recommended you get your head upgraded at the sametime to big valves as well.


    Compression will be close to 10.5:1 with a 1.9L so recommend you have the head opened up if you want to lower the compression, and get a bigger cam.


    In our build we dropped compression by pocketing the valves, and using a thicker cometic head gasket. With those two tricks we got compression below 10:1 so it could easily run on pump gas. Don't do that and you get a bigger cam would work as well but may require octane boost.


    Note the pistons in these pictures are using the 2.4L Rod and are Ford pistons. That setup required more work to the core block internals. So after talking to the shop, they felt the easiest setup to replicate and for another shop to install will be the BMW rod version.


    If you want the replicate the Opel 2.4L Rod w/ Ford 2.3L piston version, that can save you about $500 but you will have to have more work done to your block and the displacement would drop to 2482 cc. and bore increases to 97mm.


    My shop has been slow to get the motors out, but the kits I can get done. So this is an option for anyone wanting a big motor. Without the cost and hassle of trying to find one in europe, have it shipped here and rebuilt. Also cheaper in the long run.

    I was under the impression he deferred to 2020, as OMC took the 2018 slot for the 50th Opel GT meet.


    This years meet, for the Manta is in April, and gave little time for anyone to schedule to go to it like the GT one.


    I will call Gil this week and see what the deal is.

    OK. I have 6 2.3L cranks and will be trying to clear out all my stuff.


    I will have all the cranks balanced, offset ground to fit BMW M10 rods, and have the weights shaved to fit the 1.9L Block better, they will come with the main bearing set and shims as shown above : $1300


    If interested in a 2.3L Crank to have your own machine shop build to different recipe.. the crank itself with no bearings - $600


    As you can see the 2.3L Cranks is a bit bigger than the 1.9L/2.0L Crank..

    Figure if everyone has to learn a new website, might as well be the one where the community has control and there are no ads.

    Agreed to all the above, me and Gary have been waiting for the shift.


    The good thing about this one is that it is Ad free, and run and operated by the community. So it won't go anywhere. Ihave heard of some of the VB forums being closed and just vaporizing. As they were unprofitable. Could happen to OpelGT.com won't happen here.

    Failure cause determined. Apparently vendor had a batch of BAD lifters a cpl years ago.

    Can you take a picture of them.. ? I know a few in europe and china were in the process of reproducing the lifters.


    Most the motors I built I used these new lifters and had no problems.. that I know of. Curious if the bad batch came from the same place. I have a feeling they didn't but want to be sure.

    OPEL GT Valuation baseline ( UPDATED 2/03/20 )

    • PRIVATE - Original Survivor 1.1L Green w/ Buckskin Interior - #1.5 - $20,000 ( Oct 1st, 2017 )
    • Mecum - Lot F16.2 - 1971 1.9L STOCK Rallye Gold - #1 - $23,100 ( Jan 2019 )
    • Mecum - Lot G224 - 1973 STOCK Rallye Gold - #3 - $10,450 ( Jan 2018 )
    • Mecum - Lot F200 - 1972 White ( Custom V-6 ) - #4* (#3 body, Quality Custom Interior) - $7,500 ( Dec 2015 )
    • Bring-A-Trailer - 1972 1.9L Orange - #3 - $12,250 ( October 23rd, 2018 )
    • Bring-A-Trailer - 1973 1.9L White (Custom seat) - #3 - $11,570 ( September 6, 2018 )
    • Bring-A-Trailer - 1971 1.9L Gold (Recolor) - ( Custom Interior ) - #3.5 - $10,000 ( May 17, 2018 )
    • Bring-A-Trailer - 1971 1.9L Red (Recolor) - ( Custom Interior ) - #3.5 - $5,230 ( May 14, 2019 )
    • Bring-A-Trailer - 1970 1.9L Orange (Repaint) - #4 - $11,000 ( December 9, 2019 )
    • Bring-A-Trailer - 1971 1.9L Red - #4.5 - $4,600 ( June 27th, 2019 )
    • PRIVATE - 1970 1.9L Blue (Recolor) - VG body & Paint, Int (poor), non-running - #4.5 - $6,000 ( Jan 26th, 2020)
    • (ebay) 1970 - Rallye Gold GT (Customized - Auto) - Zionsville,In - #2 - $10,100 (Jul 01, 2019 )
    • (ebay) 1969 - Red GT STOCK - York, PA - #3.5 - $9,110 (May 22, 2019 )
    • (ebay) 1970 - White GT STOCK (Red Interior ) - York, PA - #4 - $5,401 (May 2019 )
    • (ebay) 1973 - Red GT (Auto) Modified - Pottstown, PA - #4.5 - $4,950 (Jul 20, 2019 )
    • (ebay) 1970 - Rallye Gold (Auto) - Taunton, Massachusetts - #4.5 - $4,649 (Jul 09, 2019 )

    Values 1969-1973 GT

    • #0 - (Museum Level - Survivor w/ only showroom mileage) : $39,000+
    • #0 - (Museum Level - Restoration ) : $29,000+
    • #1 - (Concours Show Level) : $19,000 - $29,000 - HAGERTY $27,000
    • #2 - (NADA High) : $14,000 - $18,000 - HAGERTY $17,000
    • #3 - (NADA Avg) : $9,900 - $13,950 - HAGERTY $9,900
    • #3.5 - (NADA Low) : $8,000 - $9,850
    • #4 - (NADA Low) : $5,100 - $7,950 - HAGERTY $5,000
    • #4.5 - ( Good Body / Bad Mechanicals OR Bad Mechanicals Decent Body ) : $3,900 - $5,000
    • #5 - (Borderline Restorable / Mechanically Runs but Not Safe ) : $1,900 - $3,850
    • #6 - (Parts Car) : $500 - $1,850 ( Depending on the quality of parts & if running or not )
    • #7 - (Barely Scrap) : $500 - $100 ($150 is what the guys that come get cars for scrap will give you..)

    Add:

    • Automatic ( This is debatable.. Those WANTING an Automatic may pay a premium.. those that don't will not )
    • $500-$1500 : 1.1L - With less than 3000 produced between 1969-1970, the 1.1L is rare version which due to rarity could see an increase due to recent interest.
    • 10% - Factory A/C
    • 5% - Early Flat Rear Panel / Split Bumper Early 69 ( Documentable by VIN and/or body stamps )
    • 1968 1/2 GT - Can potentially add value up to a few extra thousand.. if complete and documentable. So far only a handful have been documented

    OPEL Manta Valuation baseline :

    • PRIVATE - Yellow - 1973 Yellow - #2 ( Survivor, Unrestored ) - $11,000
    • Mecum - LOT F129 - 1975 White Manta - #1 - $23,100 (2019)
    • FB Marketplace - 1974 Silver Opel Manta #3.5 (Custom interior and trim) - $6500 (2018)
    • eBay - 1973 Blue Manta - #4.5 - $2,400 (7/15)
    • eBay - 1974 Yellow Manta - Survivor #3 - $5250 (4/15)
    • eBay - 1972 Orange Rally Manta - #4 - $5037 (4/15)

    Values 1971-1975 Opel Manta

    • #0 - (Museum Level) : Unknown.. Best guess $25,000 +
    • #1 - (Concours Show Level) : $18,000 - $23,000
    • #2 - (NADA High) : $9,275 - $17,000
    • #3 - (NADA Avg) : $6,500 - $9,250
    • #4 - (NADA Low) : $3,900 - $6,500
    • #4.5 - (Restorable / Mechanically OK) : $2,400 - $3,900
    • #5 - (Borderline Restorable / Mechanically Runs but Not Safe ) : $1,250 - $2,400
    • #6 - (Running Parts Car) : $1,250 - $250 (Depending on the quality of parts)
    • #7 - (Barely Scrap) : $250 - $150 ($150 is what the guys that come get cars for scrap will give you..)

    Add:

    • UNK - Automatic ( This is debatable.. Those WANTING an Automatic will pay the premium.. those that don't will not )
    • UNK - Vinyl Roof ( This is debatable.. Those WANTING it will pay more, those that don't will not )
    • 10% - Factory A/C
    • 10% - Sunroof

    Special Editions ( Note: These adders are on top of the others, but only valid on complete survivors or restored cars in #2 or above condition )

    • $500 - 1975 Model ( Complete With EFI and larger brake)
    • $500 - Luxus ( With original interior in good condition - 73 & 74 only.. center consoles unique by year) ( Gray interior 73 only & rare )
    • $1000 - Rallye ( Must include paint scheme and tach and gauge cluster - 71 a& 72 have bucket back seats, and bolsters on front seats)
    • $1000 - Blue Max ( 1973 Only must include Vinyl roof and sunroof )


    NOTE: NO Additional Value Seen in Market due to these variations

    • 1971-72 Mantas tend to be rare due to lack of big bumper protection and are the preferred model by some not named "MANTA" only 1900 Coupe
    • 1973 Models have thin bumpers but rubber rubbing strips which are hard to replace
    • ( 3 unique Luxus variants.. Silver Luxus interior VERY rare)
    • 1974 Models have Big Aluminum bumpers, the replacement rubber guards are hard to find ( 2 Unique Luxus variants Blue and Maroon )
    • 1975 Models come with Big Bumpers and many upgrades including bigger brakes and EFI


    NOTE: Asconas/1900 Sedans and Wagons seem to bring 20-50% less than Manta, closer to Kadett B pricing

    • Barrett-Jackson - LOT 9 - 1973 Ascona/1900 Wagon - #3 - $3,300 (2015)


    OPEL Kadett Valuation baseline :

    • Mecum - LOT F160 - 1968 Red 1.1L Wagon ( Bod Joyner ) - #1 - $22,500* (2017)
    • Mecum - LOT F83.1 - 1968 Red 1.1L Wagon ( Bod Joyner ) - #1 - $20,050 (2016)
    • Mecum - LOT F56 - 1968 Red 1.1L Wagon ( Bod Joyner ) - #1 - $19,000* (2017)
    • Mecum - LOT S55.1 - 1968 Red 1.1L Wagon ( Bod Joyner ) - #1 - $17,050 (2018)
    • Barrett-Jackson - LOT 188 - 1968 Red 1.1L Wagon ( Bod Joyner ) - #1 - $17,050 (2019)

    NOTE: The Bud Joyner Wagon has been at auction 5 times since 2016 ) = * High Bid did not sell

    • Mecum - LOT F83.1 - 1969 Bronze 1.1L Rallye (W/ AT) - #1 - $11,000 (2016)
    • Barrett-Jackson - LOT 620 - 1967 White 1.1L Rallye ( Gordy Klug ) - #1 - $21,450 (2014)

    Values 1966-1971 Opel Kadett


    #0 - (Museum Level) : Unknown.. Best guess $20,000 +

    #1 - (Concours Show Level) : $11,000 - $20,000

    #2 - (NADA High) : $7,000 - $11,000

    #3 - (NADA Avg) : $4,950 - $6,950

    #4 - (NADA Low) : $2,400 - $4,950

    #4.5 - (Restorable / Mechanically OK) : $1,500 - $2,400

    #5 - (Borderline Restorable / Mechanically Runs but Not Safe ) : $1,000 - $1,500

    #6 - (Running Parts Car) : $1,000 - $250 (Depending on the quality of parts)

    #7 - (Barely Scrap) : $250 - $150 ($150 is what the guys that come get cars for scrap will give you..)


    Add:

    • UNK - Automatic ( This is debatable.. Those WANTING an Automatic will pay the premium.. those that don't will not )
    • UNK - Vinyl Roof ( This is debatable.. Those WANTING it will pay more, those that don't will not )
    • 10% - Factory A/C
    • 10% - 1.5L (1968 only)
    • 15% - 1.9L
    • $500 - Sunroof

    Special Editions -

    ( Note: These adders are on top of the others, but only valid on complete survivors or restored cars in #2 or above condition )

    • $500 - LS
    • $1000 - Rallye ( Must include paint scheme and tach and gauge cluster )

    Note : U.S. Spec Kadetts from 1968-1972 have their own unique parts. So condition of tail lights can be critically important to value.

    • On all 69-71 U.S. Spec Kadetts the front grille and trim is unique, as are front side marker lights (70-71) / reflectors (68-69).
    • Taillights for 1969 and 1971 U.S. Spec Kadetts are unique to the US Models only
    • 1971 and 1972 U.S. Spec Kadetts license plate lights are different and the same as 1974-75 Opel Manta as well.

      Note : Kadetts come in a variety of shapes and sizes. ( rarely affecting value )
    • 2 Door Rallye Fast back
    • 2 Door Coupe LS
    • 2 Door Station Wagon
    • 2 Door Sedan
    • 4 Door Sedan - 2 years only : (71 US Spec version), 1967 (Std Kadett Version)

    Value determinations :

    Most value guides are ranked on a scale of 1 - 4. Level 0 is often not mentioned as its a museum piece and unique in some way ( Under 100 original miles, etc.. ), and below level 4 can vary greatly. But since Opel owners aren't like everyone else, I have included levels 0, 3.5, 4.5 thru 7 which used to be included in older price guides.


    Level #0 - MINT CONDITION, Absolutely perfect and totally original, a car with 0 miles and 0 dirt. This car is a Extremely Low Mileage survivor, that has since been stripped and rebuilt with NOS parts ( or its own NOS quality parts ). The undercarriage of the car will be as spotless at the interior. Its so exceptional, its in a class all its own. Other things that differentiate a Level 0 from a level 1, are things like provenance. I.E. Car was owned by the designer of the Opel GT, An original Conrero GT, A Opel GT with a particular racing heritage or a Factory developmental GT, etc..


    Level #1 - A car is 99% perfect, this is a national show winner at major car shows and the Opel Nationals usually have a few that show

    RUST QUOTIENT : 0% (IF this car EVER had any damage, when the body came off the rotisserie you couldn't find it.)

    Roy Bells GT (See at Charlotte, and Carlisle Shows ), Gary Farias' GT, Bud Joyner's Kadett Wagon (Red Wagon that has passed around on Mechum)

    The way to tell these are #1.. the owner didn't drive them to the meet. They are trailered in a covered trailer.

    A few exceptions to this rule can be seen in original survivors like Tom Adkins 69 1.1L GT, Jim Ericksons' original condition Mantas that show up too Carlisle. So they may have a minor bit of road wear but are mostly original paint and unrestored. They move up into this level of value due to the fact they are survivors and immaculately maintained. They look and operate as good as a 2 year old car would on a used car lot in the mid-70s.

    • Hagerty - Condition #1 vehicles are the best in the world. The visual image is of the best vehicle, in the right colors, driving onto the lawn at the finest concours. Perfectly clean, the vehicle has been groomed down to the tire treads. Painted and chromed surfaces are mirror-like. Dust and dirt are banned, and materials used are correct and superbly fitted. The one word description for #1 vehicles is "concours."


    Level #2 - (AKA HIGH value in NADA special interest car guide) A car that for most purposes is perfect and original down to Solex

    RUST QUOTIENT : 0% (IF Belly pan had rust, you can't tell without getting the car on a lift and looking for a seam)


    It's hard to tell a Level 1 from a Level 2 driving down the road. OF course the catch is a level 1 would NEVER be driven down the road (With a few exceptions.. like at a car show)

    • Hagerty - #2 vehicles could win a local or regional show. They can be former #1 vehicles that have been driven or have aged. Seasoned observers will have to look closely for flaws, but will be able to find some not seen by the general public. The paint, chrome, glass and finishes will all appear as excellent. No excessive smoke will be seen on startup, no unusual noises will emanate from the engine. The vehicle will drive as a new vehicle of its era would. The one word description for #2 vehicles is "excellent."


    Level #3 - (AKA Average by NADA Special Interest guide ) - This is the car that most have in thier garages and they make up most local car shows.

    RUST QUOTIENT : 5% (Surface rust and light rust under carpet, area around exhaust pipe, lower valance, slight damage to belly pan, rust in battery tray)


    A level 2 driven daily for a year without MAJOR detailing and pampering will be a level 3. This is a car that has been restored by its owner and cared for greatly. It may also be a totally perfect original car with fading paint. Its not a show winner, but in a small local show it will be. Some wear in the interior, paint is clean, rust-free, maybe the lenses are a bit faded or reproductions.


    • Hagerty - #3 vehicles could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 vehicle, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a fresh paint job or a new, correct interior where applicable. #3 vehicles drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts. These vehicles are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will not find any visual flaws. "Good" is the one word description of a #3 vehicle.


    Level #4 - (AKA Low in NADA Special Interest guide) - This car has oxidation in the paint, a few tears in the interior but is a solid car, a few cracks in the dash (Or a dash cover).

    RUST QUOTIENT : 10% (Above like #3, rust under shock tower caps, behind wheel wells, rockers and floors clean of rust thru, belly pan has been patched)


    It more than likely has some rust in the quarter panels BUT the floor pans and frame are rust-free. Car should have very little bondo if any, if it has bondo, then the paint needs to be in better shape. few small dents. The lenses may have slight cracks or be reproductions. This car is typically a car undergoing restoration, or a well taken care of daily driver. Mechanically it is safe to drive and can pass a state inspection.


    NOTE : While a #4 SHOULD run... a #3 with a mint interior and good body and low rust coming out of a long storage, may not. IN this case its a great deal as its a #3 that just needs cleaning and some mechanical work to be a #3.. BUT as for value it would be a #4.


    • Hagerty - #4 vehicles are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the body has a minor dent. Split seams or a cracked dash, where applicable, might be present. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or other non- stock additions might be present. A #4 vehicle can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 vehicle.

    Level #5 - (Not usually in the books.. but often confused by sellers as a #4 ESPECIALLY IF IT IS RUNNING...) - A car in this class probably shouldn't be considered as a restoration project.

    RUST QUOTIENT : 10-25% ( Rust under shock tower caps, rust through behind wheel wells, rockers and floors, rust thru in belly pan)


    There are a TON of level 5 cars out there that have been restored from 5 to 3, and the owners have severely paid for it. It's the borderline car, it is often the car found on ebay that looks a little rough, but good in the pictures. This is the "running" GT with a bad clutch, worn brakes, misses a bit, has floorboard rust, broken side markers (or bondoed over). Dash is cracked up, and seats have duct tape.. It looks as if it has promise, but 6 times out of 10 its a parts car. Many #6 cars have had floorboards patched, and a new coat of paint thrown on them and look like a #4, but if you look its a nice #5. Many a Opel owner has bought a #5 thought it was a #3, and then when they went to go get it painted found a lot of hidden damage under the carpets and behind bondo. Often has structural damage due to rust in the rockers or frame


    Level #6 - This is the one that even a novice would know is a basket case, its a parts car with a lot of good parts. BUT Don'tbe surprised to see it be able to run under its own power (though not overly well).

    RUST QUOTIENT : 25-50% ( Can pull the seats without unbolting them.. Lots of Bondo/Rust in rockers, floors and wheel arches, what belly pan ? Structural damage due to rust is the rule not the exception. NO MATTER HOW CLEAN THE INTERIOR, IF a car has structural rust damage to the frame or suspension mounts it is a #6 )


    Many have restored these as well.. Often taking them to a #4. Occasionally, if you have the time and the ability and are willing to replace most everything on the car from the wiper motor to the rear axle, these can get to a #3 or even a #2 depending on the quality of work and resources your willing to put into it. This is a good car to get if you plan on a lot of customizations like engine swaps, etc.. as your pulling the car apart anyway to modify frame and more.


    Level #7 - Didn't think this level existed? Well its the car in such bad shape (rusted, broken up, etc.) that it doesn't have but one or two good parts on it, if that.

    RUST QUOTIENT : 50%+ ( Seats have fallen thru the floor.. rockers look like swiss cheese, what's a belly pan ? )


    Seeing more of these than before recently. Some are even getting restored. But rarely. A #7 can easy bend its frame getting on a rollback. I came across one for sale for $2000 last spring. It was in a goat pen.. when you opened the hood (that had rust through in many places and lots of dents) the goat poop had made it to the engine.

    In an attempt to keep up to date.. when cars of note pass across auction blocks, ebay, BAT, or even private sales, etc.. this will be updated. As many can debate what they will sell it for.. no one can debate what things have SOLD for..


    For those that do not know me..


    I have been pulling, saving, buying and selling Opels for a long time. I started a Opel Club (The OANA) back in the 90s and for about a decade I was the guy on the NADA board for Opel and Bitter Values, and still do appraisals for insurance reasons. I also keep a eye on the prices that the cars sell for here, eBay, Bring-A-Trailer, etc.. That said, all prices are based on how much you want it and how much someone wants to sell it to you for. I do my best to give you an educated guess as to what that value should or could be. Distance and transportation can be a factor as well.. It all comes down to what you are willing to pay for it or sell it for.


    As for how much will it cost to restore..?


    A old rule of thumb is the cost to get to the next level is the difference between the two levels multiple by the number of levels.

    Want a #2 - $10000 GT from a #5 - $2000 parts car. .? Thats $8000 x 3 or $24,000

    Want a #4 - $6000 and starting with a #6 $1500 car..? Budget $4500 x 2 or $9,000


    Often what is spent is more than the car is worth.. but that's not an Opel thing.. that's a classic car thing in general.

    Its possible to do better, based on getting a better quality car to start with and having the skills and tools to do the work yourself.


    Virtually ANY car that has irreversible bodywork done to it, will value no better than a #4 to start with.. ( Roughly $8,000 )

    (A few "Tribute" cars Conrero, Aero GT, and other Vintage racing models.. IF done to an OEM level of fit and finish could value as high as a #3 )

    ORIGINAL Period Correct special models can not be valued due to their rarity. I.E. One of the two FACTORY Aero GTs..


    This is due to the value guides being based on a totally stock car, to make judging and valuation of the cars more equal for an appraiser.
    Also due to the fact that most modifications don't meet a OEM or professional fit and finish. BUT when they do.. who knows what value can bring.


    The way these are valued is to go by the #3 or #4 price for paint/interior condition, then add the "value" of the customizations.


    Some examples of "rough" values for certain standard upgrades.

    • 2.0L upgrade - $0 ( NO more value than a 1.9L Rebuild and Values #3-#5 assume a good running motor)
    • EFI Upgrade - $0-$1000 ( Depends on the quality of the install and run-ability )
    • 2.xL upgrade - $2000-$5000 ( depending on quality and age )
    • Getrag upgrade - $2000-$3000 ( depending on quality and age )
    • Body Kits - $0-+$10000 depending on quality and age or the work.

    As noted above professionally executed Aero GT clone, Conrero Clone, or professionally installed period correct kits like Steinmetz flares, etc.. can be worth more.. While homemade spoiler / Skirts / etc... if poorly done can lower the value of the car. This comes down to buyer and seller negotiation.


    Examples :

    Professional Steinmetz kit w/ Professionally installed 2.5L/EFI/Getrag - $8,000 + $10,000 + $10000 = $28,000
    MINT (#3) Stock looking GT with 2.5/EFI/Getrag - $10,200 + $10,000 = $20,200
    Daily Driver #4 with Getrag - $6,000 + $2,000 = $8,000


    NOTE: This is only a guideline for custom vehicles, as opinions can vary greatly as can the prices.


    Then take the flat brace that comes with the dipstick, and bend with a 90 bend the one in the kits I use is Stainless so the chrome won't crack or anything.


    Then put two (or three) seals on top of the stop. And adjust bracket to put a little tension down on the tube.


    Bolt in place.


    Intially trim end of dipstick until its short enough to seat in top of tube.


    Note the new dipstick and a bend to stay in the tube and a cup on the top to keep the oil from venting oil all over the motor.


    When you have the length bend the end of the dipstick with a nice curve. Then slide it in as shown.


    Fill motor to the proper amount of oil as per manual, and check dipstick and mark your oil level.


    Done.

    You have to drill the hole. First drill through a 5/16" through the block, then with a 1/2" drill bit go down 3/8" for a place for seal.


    Best to have NEW Drill bits when going at the cast iron.. save you a lot of time and hassle. Dull drill bits and cast iron don't go together.


    On motors with steel pans already you can skip the drilling part. Which is good if the motor is in the car because, well I know I shouldn't have to tell anyone, but drilling through the block creates a LOT of shavings.. and probably best to have the oil pan off if your going to drill the block.


    Trim tube to fit, top and bottom. If you have a steel pan already you may not have to trim the bottom.


    Insert 1 ( or 2 seals if you already have the steel pan and the larger factory hole drilled ) on end of tube and lube seals.


    Sometime sliding the seals in first about half way, then tube makes it easier ( This is more true if you drill the smaller hole. Overall depends on the seals you have and the size of the hole.

    How to cure the leaky dipstick on motors with steel pans, where the dipstick seats into the block. It will also make your motor look better in the long run and make access to the dipstick easier.


    Parts needed:


    Aftermarket replacement chrome dipstick for a Chevy Small Block

    A set of Opel EFI seals ( BMW or Volvo etc.. should work).


    For the 2.4L or if your converting a motor from a AL pan to a Steel pan.

    List of Opel CIH 5 speeds and ratios.


    Stock Opel 4 spd

    1st 3.428

    2nd 2.156

    3rd 1.366

    4th 1.000


    Getrag 240 5 speed ( Manta B, the smallest and easiest to install )


    1st 3.717

    2nd 2.019

    3rd 1.316

    4th 1.000

    5th 0.804



    R25 - Omega / Senator


    1st 3.95:1

    2nd 2.19:1

    3rd 1.39:1

    4th 1.00:1

    5th 0.84:1

    Rev 3.53:1


    Getrag 265 5 speed - Senator / Rekord ?


    1st 3.822

    2nd 2.200

    3rd 1.398

    4th 1.000

    5th 0.813


    ZF S5-18/3 - Kadett GTE ( very rare, very expensive.. BUT remanufacturer.. for about $8000.00)


    http://historicmotorsporttrans…x-with-synchromesh-gears/ )

    http://www.gr-box.sm/album/products-/#cambiozfopel-jpg


    1st 2.99

    2nd 1.76

    3rd 1.300

    4th 1.000

    5th 0.87


    I'm posting this as it wasnt easily found anywhere online.. now it will be


    Im also planning on trying to install the more common R25 into a GT soon.

    Finally got pictures to show what the problem was using a 2.4L oil pump cover, Crank position sensor and motronic pulley on a 1.9L timing cover.


    I had installed 2.4L motronic on a new 2.5L build I recently did, and started having problems getting the car to start. Being motronic controls the ignition, it wasn't a simple solution to fix. As no amount of turning the distributor, or checking the cam pulley helped.


    6 weeks of replacing parts and checking the head, checking ECU, etc.. etc.. and came across the issue and solution by accident.


    Long story short, the gasket pushes the oil pump cover up and thus takes the crank sensor out of range. Yes that paper thin gasket was the problem.


    So make sure to measure the gap with a proper feeler gauge. As my gauges were inches, I used my digital caliper the confirm the feelers. This also helped becuase I was having to use two feelers to get in the range.


    So once confirmed that gap was too large. To get back in range I used sandpaper and file on top side of oil pump.

    The range is really small, 0.3 to 1.3mm, measured from the tip of sensor to the ring on the pulley.


    Also note TDC is easily seen on a EFI crank pulley, no more checking back at the firewall.