GoinManta started a new event:
18th Opel National Meet and 30th Anniversary of the MOA
Richmond Virginia
Friday will be dinner near the Hotel
Saturday will be the event at Legend Brewing
Saturday night is TBD.
Hotel :
La Quinta Inn and Suites
1301 Huguenot Road
Midlothian VA
1-800-753-3757
Block Name : The Opel Motorsport Club
More info on the event : http://www.tinyurl.com/rvaopel
GoinManta started a new event:
https://carlisleevents.com/events/events-detail/index...
Our Annual meet at Carlisle is only 2 months away..
( NO WAY.. ?? Really ? )
Hotel is Comfort Inn PA Turnpike - I-81
77 Shady lane Carlisle, PA 17013
17177063400
https://www.choicehotels.com/reservations/groups/cr96q1
Best to call hotel to get reservations.
Group Number os CR96Q1 or Opel Motorsport 2023
Bens Mantas Body, the Kadetts engine, and suspension, and then MAYBE I get to work on my own cars.
Attached an article I wrote on what to look for in purchasing an Opel GT.
I have just put a whole bunch of videos up on how to build a Opel motor, and the differences in the motors :
You can also find them here :
Opel CIH Introduction and Engine Build - Classicopels.com - Alt-Opel.US
If you find them useful wouldnt mind if you hit the subscribe button while you were there. 
Anyone that wants to preorder a complete kit while the cranks are getting done..
I will offer this one time.. a complete kit.
This kit will convert a 1.9L to a 2.5L or optionally 2.6L
Kit will include :
The modified Opel 2.3L crank / Crank bearing set / Thrust bearing shims for the main thrust bearing - $1300
New pistons custom set modified to be piston steered - $900
New BMW Rods (With rod bearings) mounted to the pistons - $400
Total is $2600 for the complete kit.
ANY machine shop with this kit and a 1.9L block can do the work. All they have to do is bored the block, and mount the crank. Then they will need to modify and clear out any "hits" inside the block.
Recommended you get your head upgraded at the sametime to big valves as well.
Compression will be close to 10.5:1 with a 1.9L so recommend you have the head opened up if you want to lower the compression, and get a bigger cam.
In our build we dropped compression by pocketing the valves, and using a thicker cometic head gasket. With those two tricks we got compression below 10:1 so it could easily run on pump gas. Don't do that and you get a bigger cam would work as well but may require octane boost.
Note the pistons in these pictures are using the 2.4L Rod and are Ford pistons. That setup required more work to the core block internals. So after talking to the shop, they felt the easiest setup to replicate and for another shop to install will be the BMW rod version.
If you want the replicate the Opel 2.4L Rod w/ Ford 2.3L piston version, that can save you about $500 but you will have to have more work done to your block and the displacement would drop to 2482 cc. and bore increases to 97mm.
My shop has been slow to get the motors out, but the kits I can get done. So this is an option for anyone wanting a big motor. Without the cost and hassle of trying to find one in europe, have it shipped here and rebuilt. Also cheaper in the long run.
I was under the impression he deferred to 2020, as OMC took the 2018 slot for the 50th Opel GT meet.
This years meet, for the Manta is in April, and gave little time for anyone to schedule to go to it like the GT one.
I will call Gil this week and see what the deal is.
OK. I have 6 2.3L cranks and will be trying to clear out all my stuff.
I will have all the cranks balanced, offset ground to fit BMW M10 rods, and have the weights shaved to fit the 1.9L Block better, they will come with the main bearing set and shims as shown above : $1300
If interested in a 2.3L Crank to have your own machine shop build to different recipe.. the crank itself with no bearings - $600
As you can see the 2.3L Cranks is a bit bigger than the 1.9L/2.0L Crank..
Figure if everyone has to learn a new website, might as well be the one where the community has control and there are no ads.
Hotel information and registration info to come.
More Info here: https://www.route66fest.com/
Agreed to all the above, me and Gary have been waiting for the shift.
The good thing about this one is that it is Ad free, and run and operated by the community. So it won't go anywhere. Ihave heard of some of the VB forums being closed and just vaporizing. As they were unprofitable. Could happen to OpelGT.com won't happen here.
BMW IRS rear as mentioned in video ( In a GT )
Given Opel doesnt do modern motorcycles BUT BMW does..
This seems like a better option for engine swap than a modern "Car" engine.
IF not sold I will have a rebuilt 5 speed at the show, and possibly a used 2.2L
Failure cause determined. Apparently vendor had a batch of BAD lifters a cpl years ago.
Can you take a picture of them.. ? I know a few in europe and china were in the process of reproducing the lifters.
Most the motors I built I used these new lifters and had no problems.. that I know of. Curious if the bad batch came from the same place. I have a feeling they didn't but want to be sure.
OPEL GT Valuation baseline ( UPDATED 07/05/23 )
( Note : Documented Survivor. Car all original with minor defects to paint due to respray and battery box repair )
Values 1969-1973 GT
Add:
OPEL GT Valuation - Customs and One-Offs
From : Determining Opel Values for Opels in the US - Classic Opel Registry - Classicopels.com - Alt-Opel.US
Can be no initial value can be no higher than a #3 in "value", in this case $17,750
#3 Condition : $17,750
Flare and Body Kit ( Professionally Installed ) & Custom Rims : $5000
Professionally Installed Turbo w/ 5 speed and AC : $10,000
Custom Leather interior: $5000
And so on, so while the $35,000 sets a bar, it doesn't overprice the market as the car in question was immaculately done. It's so well done, that it does out value a stock survivor. BUT if a Survivor were restored to this level, it would be worth as much if not more.
So how to get to this value. The work has to be professional grade on the level of professional restoration. It has to be period correct and/or tasteful in a way that it can be universally admired, and also sticks to the original design as much as possible. Also the overall car from bumper to bumper has to be immaculate.
True that taste is subjective, but in this case the car is close to stock as it gets and still be a wildly custom car.
The engine bay looks as close to factory as you would imagine, the undercarriage is immaculate, the interior keeps to the same original factory look, the exterior, looks 90% stock to include the stock mirrors. No big questionable or debatable spoilers or modifications to the nose or rear of the car. The Flares are period correct, and were seen on the Stienmetz GT, and Conrero GT of the era. Paint color is a universally admired silver, with no custom flake or stripes. The Rims fit the overall shape and the flares like they were made for it.
Does this mean all customs are worth this much..? NO, Absolutely not. Just as few survivors make it to Level 1 or 0, few customs are done to this level. Its the exception and not the rule.
OPEL Manta Valuation baseline :
Values 1971-1975 Opel Manta
Add:
Special Editions ( Note: These adders are on top of the others, but only valid on complete survivors or restored cars in #2 or above condition )
NOTE: NO Additional Value Seen in Market due to these variations
NOTE: Asconas/1900 Sedans and Wagons seem to bring 20-50% less than Manta, closer to Kadett B pricing
OPEL Kadett Valuation baseline :
NOTE: The Bud Joyner Wagon has been at auction 5 times since 2016 ) = * High Bid did not sell
Values 1966-1971 Opel Kadett
#0 - (Museum Level) : Unknown.. Best guess $20,000 +
#1 - (Concours Show Level) : $11,000 - $20,000
#2 - (NADA High) : $7,000 - $11,000
#3 - (NADA Avg) : $4,950 - $6,950
#4 - (NADA Low) : $2,400 - $4,950
#4.5 - (Restorable / Mechanically OK) : $1,500 - $2,400
#5 - (Borderline Restorable / Mechanically Runs but Not Safe ) : $1,000 - $1,500
#6 - (Running Parts Car) : $1,000 - $250 (Depending on the quality of parts)
#7 - (Barely Scrap) : $250 - $150 ($150 is what the guys that come get cars for scrap will give you..)
Add:
Special Editions -
( Note: These adders are on top of the others, but only valid on complete survivors or restored cars in #2 or above condition )
Note : U.S. Spec Kadetts from 1968-1972 have their own unique parts. So condition of tail lights can be critically important to value.
Value determinations :
Most value guides are ranked on a scale of 1 - 4. Level 0 is often not mentioned as its a museum piece and unique in some way ( Under 100 original miles, etc.. ), and below level 4 can vary greatly. But since Opel owners aren't like everyone else, I have included levels 0, 3.5, 4.5 thru 7 which used to be included in older price guides.
Level #0 - MINT CONDITION, Absolutely perfect and totally original, a car with 0 miles and 0 dirt. This car is a Extremely Low Mileage survivor, that has since been stripped and rebuilt with NOS parts ( or its own NOS quality parts ). The undercarriage of the car will be as spotless at the interior. Its so exceptional, its in a class all its own. Other things that differentiate a Level 0 from a level 1, are things like provenance. I.E. Car was owned by the designer of the Opel GT, An original Conrero GT, A Opel GT with a particular racing heritage or a Factory developmental GT, etc..
Level #1 - A car is 99% perfect, this is a national show winner at major car shows and the Opel Nationals usually have a few that show
RUST QUOTIENT : 0% (IF this car EVER had any damage, when the body came off the rotisserie you couldn't find it.)
Roy Bells GT (See at Charlotte, and Carlisle Shows ), Gary Farias' GT, Bud Joyner's Kadett Wagon (Red Wagon that has passed around on Mechum)
The way to tell these are #1.. the owner didn't drive them to the meet. They are trailered in a covered trailer.
A few exceptions to this rule can be seen in original survivors like Tom Adkins 69 1.1L GT, Jim Ericksons' original condition Mantas that show up too Carlisle. So they may have a minor bit of road wear but are mostly original paint and unrestored. They move up into this level of value due to the fact they are survivors and immaculately maintained. They look and operate as good as a 2 year old car would on a used car lot in the mid-70s.
Level #2 - (AKA HIGH value in NADA special interest car guide) A car that for most purposes is perfect and original down to Solex
RUST QUOTIENT : 0% (IF Belly pan had rust, you can't tell without getting the car on a lift and looking for a seam)
It's hard to tell a Level 1 from a Level 2 driving down the road. OF course the catch is a level 1 would NEVER be driven down the road (With a few exceptions.. like at a car show)
Level #3 - (AKA Average by NADA Special Interest guide ) - This is the car that most have in thier garages and they make up most local car shows.
RUST QUOTIENT : 5% (Surface rust and light rust under carpet, area around exhaust pipe, lower valance, slight damage to belly pan, rust in battery tray)
A level 2 driven daily for a year without MAJOR detailing and pampering will be a level 3. This is a car that has been restored by its owner and cared for greatly. It may also be a totally perfect original car with fading paint. Its not a show winner, but in a small local show it will be. Some wear in the interior, paint is clean, rust-free, maybe the lenses are a bit faded or reproductions.
Level #4 - (AKA Low in NADA Special Interest guide) - This car has oxidation in the paint, a few tears in the interior but is a solid car, a few cracks in the dash (Or a dash cover).
RUST QUOTIENT : 10% (Above like #3, rust under shock tower caps, behind wheel wells, rockers and floors clean of rust thru, belly pan has been patched)
It more than likely has some rust in the quarter panels BUT the floor pans and frame are rust-free. Car should have very little bondo if any, if it has bondo, then the paint needs to be in better shape. few small dents. The lenses may have slight cracks or be reproductions. This car is typically a car undergoing restoration, or a well taken care of daily driver. Mechanically it is safe to drive and can pass a state inspection.
NOTE : While a #4 SHOULD run... a #3 with a mint interior and good body and low rust coming out of a long storage, may not. IN this case its a great deal as its a #3 that just needs cleaning and some mechanical work to be a #3.. BUT as for value it would be a #4.
Level #5 - (Not usually in the books.. but often confused by sellers as a #4 ESPECIALLY IF IT IS RUNNING...) - A car in this class probably shouldn't be considered as a restoration project.
RUST QUOTIENT : 10-25% ( Rust under shock tower caps, rust through behind wheel wells, rockers and floors, rust thru in belly pan)
There are a TON of level 5 cars out there that have been restored from 5 to 3, and the owners have severely paid for it. It's the borderline car, it is often the car found on ebay that looks a little rough, but good in the pictures. This is the "running" GT with a bad clutch, worn brakes, misses a bit, has floorboard rust, broken side markers (or bondoed over). Dash is cracked up, and seats have duct tape.. It looks as if it has promise, but 6 times out of 10 its a parts car. Many #6 cars have had floorboards patched, and a new coat of paint thrown on them and look like a #4, but if you look its a nice #5. Many a Opel owner has bought a #5 thought it was a #3, and then when they went to go get it painted found a lot of hidden damage under the carpets and behind bondo. Often has structural damage due to rust in the rockers or frame
Level #6 - This is the one that even a novice would know is a basket case, its a parts car with a lot of good parts. BUT Don'tbe surprised to see it be able to run under its own power (though not overly well).
RUST QUOTIENT : 25-50% ( Can pull the seats without unbolting them.. Lots of Bondo/Rust in rockers, floors and wheel arches, what belly pan ? Structural damage due to rust is the rule not the exception. NO MATTER HOW CLEAN THE INTERIOR, IF a car has structural rust damage to the frame or suspension mounts it is a #6 )
Many have restored these as well.. Often taking them to a #4. Occasionally, if you have the time and the ability and are willing to replace most everything on the car from the wiper motor to the rear axle, these can get to a #3 or even a #2 depending on the quality of work and resources your willing to put into it. This is a good car to get if you plan on a lot of customizations like engine swaps, etc.. as your pulling the car apart anyway to modify frame and more.
Level #7 - Didn't think this level existed? Well its the car in such bad shape (rusted, broken up, etc.) that it doesn't have but one or two good parts on it, if that.
RUST QUOTIENT : 50%+ ( Seats have fallen thru the floor.. rockers look like swiss cheese, what's a belly pan ? )
Seeing more of these than before recently. Some are even getting restored. But rarely. A #7 can easy bend its frame getting on a rollback. I came across one for sale for $2000 last spring. It was in a goat pen.. when you opened the hood (that had rust through in many places and lots of dents) the goat poop had made it to the engine.
In an attempt to keep up to date.. when cars of note pass across auction blocks, ebay, BAT, or even private sales, etc.. this will be updated. As many can debate what they will sell it for.. no one can debate what things have SOLD for..
For those that do not know me..
I have been pulling, saving, buying and selling Opels for a long time. I started an Opel Club (The OANA) back in the 90s and for about a decade I was on the NADA board for Classic Car Values covering Opel and Bitter SC, and I still do appraisals for insurance reasons. I also keep a eye on the prices that the cars sell for here, eBay, Bring-A-Trailer, etc.. That said, all prices are based on how much you want it and how much someone wants to sell it to you for. I do my best to give you an educated guess as to what that value should or could be.
Distance and transportation can be a factor as well.. It all comes down to what you are willing to pay for it or sell it for.
As for how much will it cost to restore..?
A old rule of thumb is the cost to get to the next level is the difference between the two levels multiple by the number of levels.
Want a #2 - $10000 GT from a #5 - $2000 parts car. .? Thats $8000 x 3 or $24,000
Want a #4 - $6000 and starting with a #6 $1500 car..? Budget $4500 x 2 or $9,000
Often what is spent is more than the car is worth.. but that's not an Opel thing.. that's a classic car thing in general.
Its possible to do better, based on getting a better quality car to start with and having the skills and tools to do the work yourself.
Virtually ANY car that has irreversible bodywork done to it, will value no better than a #4 to start with.. ( Roughly $8,000 )
(A few "Tribute" cars Conrero, Aero GT, and other Vintage racing models.. IF done to an OEM level of fit and finish could value as high as a #3 )
ORIGINAL Period Correct special models can not be valued due to their rarity. I.E. One of the two FACTORY Aero GTs..
This is due to the value guides being based on a totally stock car, to make judging and valuation of the cars more equal for an appraiser.
Also due to the fact that most modifications don't meet a OEM or professional fit and finish. BUT when they do.. who knows what value can bring.
The way these are valued is to go by the #3 or #4 price for paint/interior condition, then add the "value" of the customizations.
Some examples of "rough" values for certain standard upgrades.
As noted above professionally executed Aero GT clone, Conrero Clone, or professionally installed period correct kits like Steinmetz flares, etc.. can be worth more.. While homemade spoiler / Skirts / etc... if poorly done can lower the value of the car. This comes down to buyer and seller negotiation.
Examples :
Professional Steinmetz kit w/ Professionally installed 2.5L/EFI/Getrag - $8,000 + $10,000 + $10000 = $28,000
MINT (#3) Stock looking GT with 2.5/EFI/Getrag - $10,200 + $10,000 = $20,200
Daily Driver #4 with Getrag - $6,000 + $2,000 = $8,000
NOTE: This is only a guideline for custom vehicles, as opinions can vary greatly as can the prices.
Then take the flat brace that comes with the dipstick, and bend with a 90 bend the one in the kits I use is Stainless so the chrome won't crack or anything.
Then put two (or three) seals on top of the stop. And adjust bracket to put a little tension down on the tube.
Bolt in place.
Intially trim end of dipstick until its short enough to seat in top of tube.
Note the new dipstick and a bend to stay in the tube and a cup on the top to keep the oil from venting oil all over the motor.
When you have the length bend the end of the dipstick with a nice curve. Then slide it in as shown.
Fill motor to the proper amount of oil as per manual, and check dipstick and mark your oil level.
Done.
