Posts by opellane

It's been a while since the last Post Here, After the Testing, I decided to give the Yellow GT a Overhaul, The motor is old a loss of oil psi over time, 20yrs 92,000 So I decide to Go Restore the motor and drive-train too. Pictures show Crankshaft badly scored lack of oil psi last 2 yrs driving. The engine is at the machine shop now..

and "" Now am thinking about Overhauling the Frontend Assembly too""

It's soo Noisey

.... What the heck while am there, if I have the Time LOL

More to add to this Project ...Stay Tuned

^^^^ More on post #2

Opel's Outside the Show Case Building

2019 Fall Auto Fair and Opel Nationals held at the Charlotte Motor Speedway was a Success

Photo shows that the Building on the far right has Opels parking out front of Pavilion

It was a Good show with some rain on Saturday.

Photo's to follow

Opel's On the Raceways Big Screen T.V.

After some good test drives.... lots of purge of air from brake lines from small fluid leaks, these new Master Cylinders are a pain to bleed

The rear circuit took a long time to prime and finally purge all air.

Results are the Manta big brakes are nice,,solid rotors but nothing compared to the Vented brakes system.. with dual brake pistons

So am in line for that next mod. Soon..

The Rear seems to sound normal...and now I hear mesh sound from the Getrag 5 Speed. Unit must have over 100,000 miles as I know it was installed

Used from OGTS in 2001 and I must of put over 50,000 myself,

so might need to overhaul Getrag too..

So I'll drive my Yellow GT until before its time for Hibernation

Make repair punch lists

And think about winter projects ahead......

Thanks Norbert... those are yellow bird pipes..the yellow paint didn't last as a couple fluid leak help remove the paint.. the hard part for me was getting the old hard brake pipe fittings back into MC without cross threading.""" TIGHT NO LEAKING"".. so I Go nice and slow ..sometimes you can't tell as tapper thread.. I tighten all brake pipes Mikey Good and Tight then more if it's leaking .. the front one was a bitch..

So I'll need another Go around bleeding... again// Before Road Testing I always Knock Three Times on Wood .. For+++ G O O D ---- L U C K +++ then Hit the Road works foe Me

"""" ROAD TESTING"""" was amazing... besides the issues with small brake fluid leaks @MC the

first ride was "" Amazing"" The engine sounds totally different with the new Swedish

German Exhaust it really V- RUUUMM "" Sounds is nice and Throaty"" and it feels it added to the power of GT engine ,as I felt and increase in HP that was cool.... But the ride is getting nice with the Koni Red Shocks and the Rear sway Bar Made a Big Handling difference...it handle like there was magnets on my tires..the brakes were spongy with some "" Air"" other wise effortless braking with the new rear disc system.. Happy so Far It feels like Real Power Brakes with the larger Booster and MC. Effortless braking Stops NICELY ///

and No More Whining noise from the rear end. that's GOOD . ..Now hear hear the Getrag gears More LOL.... I'll update this thread with final finish photo's

I had to lower the GT down to back into it's wheels and Lower my Lifting Device to be able to raise the Hood fully to install the Larger Pwr Booster / MC Parts.

The Rear wheels look nice with the rotors showing.

I cleaned up the Banjo fittings and Reservoir bracket as I thought it was pretty dirty, I added a new Proportion Valve I got from Germany ( ( was recommend to balance new Audi rear calipers )

When installing a new Master Cylinder always bench bleed. Install 10mm threaded stubs into the MC ports

( I used my old hard pipe ends from old brakes lines, or little plastic fitting ,i used for plugs

then added clear tubes 3 and clamp them into MC Reservoir so thet can not come out.

then fill the MC and start priming with "" Full Stokes" to get all the air bubbles out

Then after it's prime """ Bench Bled"" Then carefully plug all the ports and install the MC onto the GT.. less chance of spills

---Then

The Booster and MC took me about two hour to install, I like it when my Yellow Bird like to fight me all the way.. but it's done All that's left is bleeding system and leak checking..

Almost there

Quote from Dylan

Wow, it looks better and better, worth to follow this build lads! I'll show those pics to my buddy from DSRLeasing and give him some encouragement

Hey Dylan ,,, Am Glad that you like my work,, but please"" S T O P Spamming my build thread with your friends company... Thank You

I now need to get the new Booster installed or use the smaller one that I have. Need more access space..

I will try again to get the large booster unit to fit. I lower the car ..rather than remove hood...with my rotten luck

Must raise hood hinge .. That's holding me up for now..

stay tuned

""" Now That's Matching Citrus Yellow Bird Paint """"

Fresh Paint

Booster is ready/// notice other half Black .. job for another day ..couple drips not too bad Now to Get this Darn Booster to fit and up into place ..... Sleep Lots of masking tape to protect wires from paint

Now One Half of the GT Engine Bay / Compartment is Painted Citrus Yellow. Matching Paint.. Original Paint Chrome Yellow ""LQQKS GOOD to me""

More Photo's Work in Progress .. The Hood Hinge Might be a issue for the new power booster unit ...will see.. really don't want to remove the hood.... or lower car off lift.. yuk

Back to the Paint work ...

I've have started to install the new Larger Master Cylinder and Larger Power Booster units. After taking a Good look at the work. I thought it Best to Remove the Brake parts and Freshen Up the Yellow Paint behind ( Inner Fenders in frontend body man thought it best to paint under coat black some 20 years ago) Cleaned with Liquor Thinners meesy job

"" I thought it was going to be tough removing the MC and Booster unit's Out but,,,, had just enough hood hinge clearance""

"" Not sure parts about going back "" can't raise hood 100% on my Lifting system and ceiling Height""

I made a Side Flask using a Mason Jar and using a Vacuum pump to remove Brake fluid from Reservoir and aid in brake bleeding later

Then more cleaning and sanding,, I Have a small amount of matching paint to Mix/ match/ To make for a Nice Job  

Here are some photo's of the paint work then back to the Brake work...

Quote from Norbert

Mike

Exhaust sell by German dealer! But made in Sweden by Simons!

Btw. Is first class Exhaust with a real deep sonor sound out of Sweden Steel!

The sound from the S.S. Oval Rear Pipes sounds "" Sonor"" OK ( It was worth waiting for Exhaust to arrive and costs $$ ) You can't get this kind of quality and craftsmanship here done like this on a Opel GT in USA ..sorry Sweden Steel and by Simons Five Stars ( Thumbs Up )

If the Engine bay is Black then Aqua would pop...just saying.... odd colors pop more on Black engine bay in my opinion. I would say rule of thumb ...being to a lot of car shows and all

That when the engine color same as car color car Looks Factory,, otherwise engine black or Gray ( neutral color)

when the Engine Bay is Black Motor cod b any color ? ? Just my 2 cents

Hey you do what ever? It's your Baby... I didn't even know engine paint came in those colors

What makes you Happy, am sure it will look nice

I painted my rebuilt engine Jet Glossy Black. Find it the best color for engines

Hides dirt and oil stains.. JMHO then add some chrome stuff to it LOL

I used a product by Bob Hirsch enamel and added some hardener to it. It takes a while to dry otherwise...Good Luck

Here is the Installed "" New German Exhaust System"" 2 inch Dia. pipe is a "" Perfect Fit""

with Large Oval Rear S.S. Pipes makes a deep throaty Sound.. not too loud either "Nice Job"

Work in progress is getting old MC and booster removed ..Paint that area yellow again as it was hidden w/ mc booster unit. Install the New Parts .. I'll post some more photo's of that chapter of the project..stay tuned

I also installed a new 2" German Exhaust ,,,while the rear end was out.. I'll post photo's soon

Next is to install new MC and Booster with Proportioning Valve and new Chrome Brake Support Rail...

work in progress... I had new Brake Cables custom made for the new rear Disc Brakes. Made to center tensioner using 8mm threaded machine screw

I also finished up the new Trailing Arms ( Links ) Mod. took a bit of time to order the right size material and accurately measure and cut the spacers and shims...painted to prevent rust

I Greased the ball end with Marine anti-corrision ( water proof grease..like marine trailer bearing grease) to prevent rust.

I made brake cable bracket using split ring collars, one on the trailing arm and a 10mm on the cable drilled and tap using harden 8/32 set machine screw as fastener until I can tac weld

The main thing isto make sure the cables don't Rub touch the rotors or the back of the wheels