Overhauling a Opel GT Rear Diff. Unit

I now need to get the new Booster installed or use the smaller one that I have. Need more access space..

I will try again to get the large booster unit to fit. I lower the car ..rather than remove hood...with my rotten luck

Must raise hood hinge .. That's holding me up for now..

stay tuned

Quote from Dylan

Wow, it looks better and better, worth to follow this build lads! I'll show those pics to my buddy from DSRLeasing and give him some encouragement

Hey Dylan ,,, Am Glad that you like my work,, but please"" S T O P Spamming my build thread with your friends company... Thank You

I had to lower the GT down to back into it's wheels and Lower my Lifting Device to be able to raise the Hood fully to install the Larger Pwr Booster / MC Parts.

The Rear wheels look nice with the rotors showing.

I cleaned up the Banjo fittings and Reservoir bracket as I thought it was pretty dirty, I added a new Proportion Valve I got from Germany ( ( was recommend to balance new Audi rear calipers )

When installing a new Master Cylinder always bench bleed. Install 10mm threaded stubs into the MC ports

( I used my old hard pipe ends from old brakes lines, or little plastic fitting ,i used for plugs

then added clear tubes 3 and clamp them into MC Reservoir so thet can not come out.

then fill the MC and start priming with "" Full Stokes" to get all the air bubbles out

Then after it's prime """ Bench Bled"" Then carefully plug all the ports and install the MC onto the GT.. less chance of spills

---Then

The Booster and MC took me about two hour to install, I like it when my Yellow Bird like to fight me all the way.. but it's done All that's left is bleeding system and leak checking..

Almost there

Thanks Norbert... those are yellow bird pipes..the yellow paint didn't last as a couple fluid leak help remove the paint.. the hard part for me was getting the old hard brake pipe fittings back into MC without cross threading.""" TIGHT NO LEAKING"".. so I Go nice and slow ..sometimes you can't tell as tapper thread.. I tighten all brake pipes Mikey Good and Tight then more if it's leaking .. the front one was a bitch..

So I'll need another Go around bleeding... again// Before Road Testing I always Knock Three Times on Wood .. For+++ G O O D ---- L U C K +++ then Hit the Road works foe Me

"""" ROAD TESTING"""" was amazing... besides the issues with small brake fluid leaks @MC the

first ride was "" Amazing"" The engine sounds totally different with the new Swedish

German Exhaust it really V- RUUUMM "" Sounds is nice and Throaty"" and it feels it added to the power of GT engine ,as I felt and increase in HP that was cool.... But the ride is getting nice with the Koni Red Shocks and the Rear sway Bar Made a Big Handling difference...it handle like there was magnets on my tires..the brakes were spongy with some "" Air"" other wise effortless braking with the new rear disc system.. Happy so Far It feels like Real Power Brakes with the larger Booster and MC. Effortless braking Stops NICELY ///

and No More Whining noise from the rear end. that's GOOD . ..Now hear hear the Getrag gears More LOL.... I'll update this thread with final finish photo's

After some good test drives.... lots of purge of air from brake lines from small fluid leaks, these new Master Cylinders are a pain to bleed

The rear circuit took a long time to prime and finally purge all air.

Results are the Manta big brakes are nice,,solid rotors but nothing compared to the Vented brakes system.. with dual brake pistons

So am in line for that next mod. Soon..

The Rear seems to sound normal...and now I hear mesh sound from the Getrag 5 Speed. Unit must have over 100,000 miles as I know it was installed

Used from OGTS in 2001 and I must of put over 50,000 myself,

so might need to overhaul Getrag too..

So I'll drive my Yellow GT until before its time for Hibernation

Make repair punch lists

And think about winter projects ahead......

It's been a while since the last Post Here, After the Testing, I decided to give the Yellow GT a Overhaul, The motor is old a loss of oil psi over time, 20yrs 92,000 So I decide to Go Restore the motor and drive-train too. Pictures show Crankshaft badly scored lack of oil psi last 2 yrs driving. The engine is at the machine shop now..

and "" Now am thinking about Overhauling the Frontend Assembly too""

It's soo Noisey

.... What the heck while am there, if I have the Time LOL

More to add to this Project ...Stay Tuned

Here you see I started to Remove the front suspension unit ... Removed as One whole Unit for Overhaul, Repair of Poly Bushing.... Installed over 10 years has made the suspension stiff and noisey with loss of the teflon lube,,,

New Rubber Bushing is the "" Project"

Here taken down from my Kwik Lift and will be disassembled Cleaned and taken to Powder Coating Shop.

Parts came back from Powder Coat Shop... Steel Gussets were plug welded the seam weld edge to make the Control Arm bottoms Strong..then.. Sway bar Brackets welded to lower Control arms ( as per Jeff Herman... Thank You much Jeff This would make them less prone to twisting and warping.. improving handling... Stay tune for more.. Looking Good so far.. Koni Shocks and 1 inch lowering spring, Rubber Control arm bush.. and thinking about using my 77 BMW Vented Brake Kit to improve braking... to be added soon...

Quote from Tlee73gt

Just found this forum and thread the rear end looks great

I am as you know redoing my rear end not to the extent of yours

How difficult is it to change the pinion seal?

Great! Welcome... As far is Going... The Suspension work is fully completed, waiting on a rebuilt engine,, so am in the process painting the engine bay....

Here are some more Photo's , using lowering spring, and Home Made Spring Compressor,,, It not that hard to squeeze them to fit with the lowing spring... but to each there own way..classicopels.com/wcf/attachment/717/

classicopels.com/wcf/attachment/717/classicopels.com/wcf/attachment/717/classicopels.com/wcf/attachment/717/classicopels.com/wcf/attachment/717/classicopels.com/wcf/attachment/717/

As far as the Rear Pinion Seal... the seal drips a little bit of diff. oil on the floor... a few drops of oil in the Garage isn't too bad in my mind... when it make a huge oil puddle,, then worries.

You'll need to get the Torque Tube disconnected ... I think the hardest part for me was getting the new seal to fit plumb into the housing.